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From the Field
How to Winterize Your Pipes Before a North Georgia Freeze
North Georgia is not the deep South when it comes to winter. Mountain elevations in Gilmer and Pickens counties see hard freezes every year, and pipes in crawl spaces and on exterior walls do not survive them without preparation.
The Freeze Risk in North Georgia
Ryan gets this call every January. Someone drove up to their mountain cabin after a cold snap, opened the door, and heard water running where water should not be running. A pipe burst during the freeze, thawed while nobody was home, and by the time anyone got there, the damage was done.
Ellijay sits at around 1,300 feet. The ridges and hollows surrounding it can run 5 to 10 degrees colder than that on still, clear nights. Below 20 degrees, an uninsulated pipe in an exterior wall or crawl space can freeze within an hour or two depending on wind and insulation. The bigger risk for mountain properties is not the temperature itself, but the fact that many of them sit empty through stretches of winter. A burst pipe in an unoccupied cabin can go undiscovered for days. Winterizing prevents that entirely.
Which Pipes Are at Risk
Not every pipe in your home is equally vulnerable. The ones that fail first are usually in one of these spots:
- Crawl space pipes: The most common source of burst pipes in North Georgia. Crawl spaces under older mountain homes are often uninsulated and get brutally cold. Pipes running through them freeze quickly when outdoor temps drop below 20 degrees.
- Exterior wall pipes: Pipes in exterior walls without insulation on the outside face are essentially at outdoor temperature on cold nights. Bathroom supply lines and kitchen pipes on exterior walls are the usual problem spots.
- Hose bibs: The outdoor spigots where you hook up a garden hose. These need to be shut off at the interior valve and drained before the first freeze, every year.
- Garage pipes: Any water line running through an unheated attached or detached garage is at risk when temps drop.
- Outdoor supply lines: Irrigation lines and any supply line running outside the building envelope.
The Winterization Checklist
1. Shut Off and Drain Every Hose Bib
Find the interior shut-off valve for each outdoor hose bib. On most homes built after 1980, there is a dedicated valve inside the house or in the crawl space for each exterior spigot. Close it. Then go outside, open the hose bib, and let the water drain out of the line between the valve and the spigot. Leave the outdoor faucet open a crack through the winter to prevent pressure buildup if any water remains.
If your home has frost-free hose bibs, they drain themselves when you close them, but only if there is no hose still attached. A hose left on a frost-free bib traps water in the pipe and defeats the whole design. Disconnect all hoses before the first freeze.
2. Insulate Crawl Space Pipes
Foam pipe insulation from any hardware store is cheap and effective. It comes in pre-slit tubes that wrap around the pipe. The key is covering the whole run: elbows, fittings, everything. Gaps are exactly where the cold gets in and where pipes fail. A two-inch section of bare pipe at a fitting is enough to cause a burst.
For crawl spaces that stay very cold all winter, consider adding self-regulating heat cable on the most vulnerable runs. It plugs into a standard outlet and only draws power when temperatures drop. Worth it for vacation properties where you may not be around to catch a problem early.
3. Know Where Your Main Shut-Off Is Before You Need It
If you are leaving a property empty for an extended period, shut off the main water supply and drain the lines. Close the main valve, open the lowest faucet in the house, and let the water drain out. This removes standing water from the pipes entirely and eliminates the freeze risk for vacant properties.
Even if you are not draining the system, know where your main shut-off is located. If a pipe bursts, shutting off the water is the first thing you do. Searching for the valve while water is spraying through your walls is not a great time to be finding it for the first time.
4. Heat Cable on Problem Runs
For pipe sections that are difficult to insulate properly, self-regulating heat tape is an effective backup. One important installation note: do not overlap heat tape on itself. It is a fire hazard. Run it along the pipe lengthwise and follow the manufacturer's instructions on spacing and connectors.
5. Keep the Heat On
If you are not draining the lines completely, keep the heat set to at least 55 degrees in any property you are leaving for winter. This keeps the interior above freezing and protects pipes inside the building envelope. Turning heat off entirely to save on the utility bill is a bad trade when one burst pipe repair, depending on where it is and how long it flows before anyone finds it, can cause thousands in damage.
6. Open Cabinet Doors During Hard Freezes
When temperatures are forecast below 20 degrees overnight, open the cabinet doors under kitchen and bathroom sinks, especially those on exterior walls. Warm interior air circulates around the pipes. It costs nothing and can make a real difference on the coldest nights of the year.
If Your Pipes Freeze
Turn on a faucet and nothing comes out. Here is what to do:
- Leave the faucet open. As the pipe thaws, water and steam need an exit point.
- Apply gentle heat with a hair dryer, an electric heating pad, or a space heater aimed at the pipe. Start at the faucet end and work back toward the frozen section.
- Never use an open flame. A propane torch has started a lot of house fires this way. The heat is too concentrated, and wood framing near the pipe ignites before the ice thaws.
- Check every faucet in the house. If several spots have no flow, you have a longer run that has seized up, not just one isolated spot.
When It Is Already Too Late
A frozen pipe that bursts will not show damage until it thaws. When the ice melts, water pressure returns and the split starts flowing. Watch for water coming from walls, ceilings, or floors after a freeze event. Or a sudden drop in pressure across the whole house. Or water stains that appear without any obvious source.
Shut off the main supply immediately and call. The longer water runs inside a wall, the worse the remediation gets. See the emergency plumbing page for what to expect on an emergency call.
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