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From the Field
How to Choose a New Toilet
Most toilet mistakes happen before the toilet leaves the store. Measure three things, pick the right bowl, and the install goes smoothly.
Short answer: Measure the rough-in first, then choose the bowl shape, height and flush rating that fit your bathroom and your household.
- The rough-in is the distance from the finished back wall to the center of the floor drain. 12 inches is the most common, but older homes often have 14 and small bathrooms sometimes have 10.
- A toilet built for one rough-in will not sit right on another, so measure before you shop.
- Round bowls fit tight spaces. Elongated bowls are more comfortable for most adults. Taller bowls are easier to sit down on and stand up from.
- A WaterSense label means 1.28 gallons per flush or less, and it is a safe choice on a well or a septic system.
- Not sure what fits? Text Ryan a photo of your toilet and the wall behind it before you buy.
Start With the Rough-In
The rough-in is the one number that decides what toilets will fit. It is the distance from the back finished wall to the center of the drain in the floor. If the toilet is still bolted down, measure from the wall to the center of one of the two bolts. If it is out, measure to the center of the flange, not its edge. Measure from the finished wall, not the baseboard.
The answer should land near 10, 12 or 14 inches. Twelve is the most common today. Older homes often have 14, and powder rooms and small bathrooms are sometimes 10. If your number is not close to one of those, measure again.
Also check the room. Measure from the center of the drain to the side wall, the tub or the vanity, and measure the space in front. A toilet can fit the drain and still be too wide or too deep for the room.
Mountain homes bring their own surprises. Cabins and older houses in Gilmer, Pickens and Fannin counties are often a mix of original work and later changes, so the floor under an old toilet may not be what you expect. If you pull the old toilet and the floor feels soft, or the flange is cracked or sits below the floor, that is a repair to make before the new toilet goes down.
Bowl Shape and Height
There are two bowl shapes. A round bowl is shorter from front to back, so it works in a narrow bathroom. An elongated bowl is longer and rounder in the oval sense, and most adults find it more comfortable. If you have the room, elongated is usually the better pick. If the door hits the bowl, go round.
Height matters just as much. Standard toilets sit lower. Taller bowls, often sold as comfort height or chair height, are easier to sit down on and stand up from, which helps with bad knees, bad backs and older family members. Taller is not better for everyone, though. Small children and shorter adults can find it awkward, so think about who uses the bathroom every day.
One-piece toilets have the tank and bowl molded together. They are easier to wipe clean and have fewer places for grime. Two-piece toilets are usually easier to carry up a flight of stairs or into a cabin with a narrow door, because the tank and bowl come separately.
Standing in the aisle with a tape measure?
Text Ryan a photo of your toilet and the wall behind it. He is a licensed Master Plumber and answers his own phone, day or night, so you can check before you buy.
Flush Rating, Wells and Septic
Look for the WaterSense label on the box. The EPA says WaterSense toilets use 1.28 gallons per flush or less, which is 20 percent less than the current federal standard of 1.6 gallons per flush. The label also means the toilet passed independent tests for clearing waste, not just saving water. A toilet that saves water but needs two flushes does not save anything.
That matters on a well. Every gallon you flush is a gallon your pump had to lift and your pressure tank had to hold. Lower-use fixtures mean less pump run time. It matters on a septic system too, because less water in means less water for the tank and drain field to handle. If you are on septic, the bigger risk is not the toilet you buy but one that leaks. The EPA says household leaks can waste up to 180 gallons a week, and toilets are often the cause. If your current toilet runs or hisses, read the post on why a toilet runs and how to fix it before you decide it needs replacing. A new flapper is often all it needs.
Skip the fancy extras unless you want them. Heated seats and bidet attachments need an electrical outlet or a water tee near the toilet, and a lot of older bathrooms do not have either.
What to Check Before You Buy
- The shutoff valve. The small valve on the wall or floor behind the toilet should turn by hand and not drip. If it is stuck, plan on replacing it with the toilet.
- The supply line. A new toilet usually needs a new braided supply line. Do not reuse a cracked or stiff one.
- The floor. A toilet needs a flat, solid floor and a good flange. Check for soft spots and stains around the base.
- The door and the box. Cabin doors are narrow and stairs are steep. Confirm the toilet can get to the bathroom in one piece.
- The warranty and return policy. If you are buying it yourself, keep the receipt and leave the box until the toilet is installed and flushing right.
In an unheated vacation cabin, also think about winter. Water left in a toilet tank and bowl can freeze and crack porcelain. The winterizing checklist covers closing up a house for the cold months.
Installing It, and When to Call
Swapping a toilet is a job many homeowners can do, but it goes wrong in a few common ways. A wax ring that is crushed or set crooked leaks at the base, and the leak often hides under the floor for months. Over-tightening the bolts cracks the porcelain. A flange that is out of level or too low never seals right.
Ryan installs toilets, including ones you bought yourself, and he gives a free estimate before any work starts. He can also source a toilet for you if you would rather not shop. If you are about to buy, text him the rough-in number and a photo, and he can tell you whether it is the right fit. For the full list of services, see fixture installation.
Common Questions
Toilet Shopping Questions
What is a toilet rough-in and how do I measure it?
The rough-in is the distance from the finished back wall to the center of the drain flange in the floor. If the toilet is still in place, measure from the wall to the center of one of the bolts holding it down. The number should come out close to 10, 12 or 14 inches. If it does not, measure again.
Is a 12 inch rough-in toilet always right?
No. It is the most common size, but older homes often have a 14 inch rough-in, and powder rooms can have 10. A toilet is made for one of those, so check the box and the product specs against your measurement.
Round bowl or elongated bowl?
Round bowls are a little shorter front to back, which helps in a tight bathroom. Elongated bowls sit longer and most adults find them more comfortable. Measure the space in front of the toilet before you decide.
Does a low-flow toilet work on a septic system?
Yes. Toilets that use less water per flush are fine for a septic system. What hurts a septic system is a toilet that leaks all day, because that is a steady stream of extra water. A leaking toilet is worth fixing no matter what kind of system you have.
Do I need to turn off my well pump when I swap a toilet?
No. Turn off the little shutoff valve on the wall behind the toilet, drain the tank, and you are done. If that valve will not turn, or it drips once you touch it, stop and call. Old valves sometimes break when they are moved.
Can Ryan install a toilet I bought myself?
Yes. You can buy the toilet yourself or Ryan can source one. See the page on buying your own plumbing fixtures for what to check before you buy.
Ready to Swap Your Toilet?
Call or text Ryan. Tell him what you have, and he will tell you what to look for. Estimates are free.